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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.